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  • 雨枫轩原创文学网 - 纯净的绿色文学家园 !

    雨枫轩

    沅水上游几个县份

    时间:2019-09-27来源:网友提供 作者:沈从文 点击:
     
      由辰溪大河上行,便到洪江,洪江是湘西中心。出口货以木材、桐油、鸦片烟为交易中心。市区在两水汇流一个三角形地带,三面临水,通常有“小重庆”称呼。地方归会同县管辖。湖南人吃的“洪江柚子”,就是由会同、黔阳、溆浦各县属乡下集中到洪江来的。洪江商务增加了地方的财富与市面繁荣,同时也增加了军人的争夺机会。民国三十年来贵州省的政治变局,都是洪江地方直接间接促成的。贵州军人卢焘、王殿轮、王小珊、周西成、王家烈,全用洪江为发祥地,终于又被部下搞垮。湖南军人周则范、蔡钜猷、陈汉章,全用洪江为根据地,找了百十万造孽钱,负隅自固,周陈二人并且同样是在洪江被刺的。可是这些事对本地又似乎竟无多少关系。这些无知识的小军阀尽管新陈代谢,打来打去,除洪江商人照例吃点亏,与会同却并无关系。地方既不因此而衰败,也不因此而繁荣。溆浦地方在湘西文化水准特别高,读书人特别多,不靠洪江的商务,却靠一片田地,一片果园——蔗糖和橘子园的出产,此外便是几个热心地方教育的人。女子教育的基础,是个姓向女子作成的(即十年前在共产党中作妇女运动被杀的向警予,五四时代写工运文章最有声色的蔡和森的夫人)。史学家向达,经济学家武堉干,出版家舒新城,同是溆浦人。洪江沿沅水上行到黔阳,县城里有一个阳明书院,留下王阳明的一点传说,此外这个地方竟似乎不能引起外人的关心注意,也引不起本地人的自信或自骄。地方在外面读书作事的人相当多,湘西人的个性强悍处,似乎也因之较少。黔阳毗连芷江,“澧兰沅芷”在历史上成一动人名词。芷江的香草香花,的确不少。公路由辰溪往芷红,不经过溆浦黔阳,是由麻阳河沿河上行一阵,到后向西走,经芷江属的东乡两个市镇,方到芷江。
     
     
      车由辰溪过渡,沿麻阳河南岸上行时,但见河身平远静穆,嘉树四合,绿竹成林,郁郁葱葱,别有一种境界。沿河多油坊、祠堂,房子多用砖砌成立体方形或长方形,同峻拔不群的枫杉相衬,另是一种格局,有江浙风景的清秀,同时兼北方风景的厚重。河身虽不大,然而屈折平衍,因之引水灌溉两岸,十分便利,土地极其膏腴。急流处本地人多缚大竹作圆形,安置在河边小水堰道间。引水灌高处田地,且联接枧筒长数十丈,将水远引。两岸树木多,因之美丽水鸟也特别多。弄船人除少数铜仁船水手,此外全部是麻阳人,在二百五十里内,这一条河中有多少滩,多少潭,有多少碾房,有多少出名石头,无不清清楚楚。水手们互相谈论争吵的事也常不离这条河流所有的故事,和急流石头的情形。有一个地方名“失马湾”,四围是山,山下有大小村落无数,都隐在树丛中,河面宽而平,平潭中黄昏时静寂无声,惟见水鸟掠水飞去,消失在苍茫烟浦里。一切光景美丽而忧郁,见到时不免令人生“大好河山”之感。公路虽不经从失马湾过,失马湾地方有一个故事,却常常给人带走很远。
     
     
      公路入芷江境后,较大站口名怀化镇。经过的旅客除了称羡草木田地美好,以及公路宽广平坦,此外将无何等奇异感想。可是事实上这个地方的过去,正是中国三十年来的缩影。地方民性强悍,好械斗,多相互仇杀,强梁好事者既容易生事,老实循良的为生存也就力图自卫。蔡锷护法军兴,云南部队既在这里和北洋军作战。结果遗下枪支不少。本地人有钱的买枪,称为团总,个人有枪,称为练丁。枪支一多,各有所恃,于是由仇怨变成劫掠。杂牌军来,收枪裹匪膨胀势力。军队打散后,于是或入山落草保存实力,或收编成军以图挟制。内战既多,新陈代谢之际,唯一可作的事就是相互杀戮。二十年间的混乱局面,闹得至少有一万良民被把头颅割下示众,(作者个人即眼见到有三千左右农民被割头示众,)为本地人留下一笔结不了的血账。然而时间是个古怪东西,这件事到如今,当地人似乎已渐渐忘掉了。遗忘不掉且居然还能够引起旅客一点好奇心对之注意的,是一座光头山顶上留下一列堡垒形的石头房子,不像庙宇也不像住户人家,与山下简陋小市镇对照时,尤其显得两不调和。一望而知这房子是有个动人故事的。这是一个由地主而成团绅,由团绅而作大王,由大王升充军长,由军长获得巨富,由巨富被人暗杀的一个姓陈的产业。这座房子同中国许多地方堂皇富丽的建筑相似,大部分可说是用人血作成的,这房子结束了当地人对于由土匪而大王作军官成巨富的浪漫情绪。如今业已成为一个古迹,只能供过路人凭吊了。车站旁的当地妇人多显得和平而纯良,用惊奇眼光望着外来车辆和客人。客人若问“那房子是谁的产业?谁在那里住?”一定会听到那些老妇人可怜的回答:“房子是我们这里陈军长的,军长名陈汉章,五年前在洪江被人杀了,房子空空的。”且可怜的微笑。也许这妇人正想起自己被杀死的丈夫,被打死的儿子。也许想起的却是那军长死后相传留下三百五十条金子,和几个美丽姨太太的下落。谁知道她想的是什么事。怀化镇过去二十里有小村市,名“石门”,出产好梨,大而酥脆,甜如蜜汁,也和中国别的地方一样,是有好出产,并不为人注意,专家也从不曾在他著作上提及,县农场和农校更不见栽培过这种果木。再过去二十五里名“榆树湾”,地方出好米,好柿饼。与怀化镇历史相同,小小一片地面几乎用血染赤,然而人性善忘,这些事已成为过去了。民性强直,二十年前乡下人上场决斗时,尚有手携着手,用分量同等的刀相砍的公平习惯,若凑巧碰着,很可能增长旅行者一分见识。一个商人的十八岁闺女死了,入土三天后,居然还有一个卖豆腐的青年男子,把这女子从土中刨出,背到山洞中去睡她三夜的热情。这种疯狂离奇的情感,到近年来自然早消灭了。新的普通教育,造成一种无个性无特性带点世故与诈气的庸碌人生观。这种人生观,一部分人自然还以为教育成功,因此为多数人所扶持。正因为如此一来,住城市中的地主阶级,方不至于田园荒芜,收租无着。按规矩,芷江的佃户对地主除缴纳正租外,还应当在每一石租谷中认缴鸡肉一斤,数量多少照算,所以有千来石净收入的人家,到收租时照例可从各佃户处捉回百十只肥鸡。常日吃鸡,吃到年底,还有富余。单是这一点,东乡的民俗如何宜于改造,便很显然了。
     
     
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